Adire: Nigeria's Indigo Tie-Dye Fabric

Adire is the deep-indigo, resist-dyed cotton of the Yoruba people of south-west Nigeria — one of Africa's oldest and most artistic textile traditions, and one of the most collectible today.

How adire is made

Adire is made by resisting the dye. Artisans tie, stitch, fold or hand-paint a design onto plain cotton using raffia or cassava-starch paste, then dip the cloth repeatedly in natural indigo. Wherever the resist sits, the fabric stays pale, leaving crisp blue-and-white patterns when the resist is removed.

The main styles of adire

• Adire oniko — patterns made by tying the cloth with raffia before dyeing.
• Adire eleko — starch-resist designs hand-painted or stencilled with cassava paste.
• Adire alabere — patterns created by stitching the cloth tightly before dyeing.

Why adire is special

Because it is made by hand, no two pieces are identical. Indigo also ages beautifully, softening into a lived-in blue. Contemporary designers prize adire for jackets, shirts, dresses and accessories that feel both traditional and modern.

Caring for indigo

Natural indigo can "crock" (rub off) slightly when new, so wash adire separately in cold water for the first few washes and dry out of direct sun. The gentle approach in how to wash Ankara & wax print applies to adire too.

Where adire fits

Adire pairs beautifully with plain modern pieces — let the indigo be the star. See how it compares with other cloths in the African print fabric guide, or get outfit ideas.

Frequently asked questions

Is adire always blue?

Classic adire is indigo blue, but modern makers now use other natural and synthetic dyes for greens, browns and multicolour effects.

Is adire the same as batik?

They are cousins — both use a resist. Batik uses wax; classic adire uses stitching, tying or starch paste with indigo.

Shop indigo and African-print fabrics by the metre.