What Is Ankara Fabric? A Beginner's Guide

Ankara is the bright, boldly patterned cotton fabric you see in African dresses, headwraps, shirts and kaftans all over the world. If you are new to it, this guide covers everything: what Ankara is, where it comes from, how to spot good quality, and what to make with it.

What Ankara is made of

Ankara is 100% cotton wax print. The design is applied with a wax-resist dyeing process, so the pattern is crisp and appears on both sides of the cloth — a fast way to spot the real thing. Because it is cotton, Ankara is breathable, comfortable in heat, hard-wearing, and holds its colour well when washed correctly.

A short history of Ankara

Wax printing began as Dutch and Indonesian batik technology in the 1800s. It found its biggest, most passionate market in West Africa — especially Nigeria and Ghana — where it evolved into a language of its own. Patterns carry names, proverbs and social meaning, and a well-chosen cloth can signal celebration, status or belonging.

Ankara vs other African prints

Ankara is only one member of a big family. Kente is woven, adire is indigo-dyed, kitenge often carries a border, and mud cloth is hand-painted. To see exactly how they differ, read Ankara vs Kitenge vs Khanga or the full African print fabric guide.

How to tell good-quality Ankara

• The pattern is equally sharp on both sides.
• Colours are deep and even, not faded or blurry.
• The cotton feels substantial, not thin or plasticky.
• It is labelled 100% cotton.

Cheaper "fancy" prints only print one side and fade fast — learn the full test in real wax vs imitation wax print.

What Ankara is used for

• Dresses, skirts, blouses and shirts
• Flowing Ankara kaftans and abayas
• Headwraps (gele), face masks, bags and accessories
• Cushions, quilts and home décor

How much Ankara do you need?

A full-length kaftan or abaya usually needs a few metres — our how much fabric for a kaftan guide gives exact figures so you do not over- or under-buy.

Caring for Ankara

Wash cold, inside out, with a mild detergent, and dry out of direct sun. Full steps are in how to wash Ankara without fading.

Frequently asked questions

Is Ankara the same as wax print?

Ankara is a wax print — the words are often used interchangeably in West Africa. Strictly, "wax print" is the method and "Ankara" is the popular Nigerian name for it.

Does Ankara shrink?

Good cotton Ankara can shrink slightly on the first wash. Pre-washing before you cut and sew avoids surprises.

Shop genuine Ankara and wax-print fabric by the metre.